Hiking Dreams

This past year I have envisioned hiking through the mountains and forests, and along lakes and streams throughout the American West as part of my 7,000+ mile summer road trip.  In the baby stages of planning, tucked in my little Central Pennsylvania house surrounded by maps, books and computers, I kept returning to the dreaminess of hiking in the snow-peaked mountains and dense forest land from Wyoming to Western Washington.  Turns out the reality is oh so much more breathtaking than the many highlighted dots and underlines of my maps and daydreams.

Turning Skyward

In the month I spent on the road with Lexi the Golden, my British Cream golden retriever, we hiked significant miles in twelve different states.  Each place now carries memories I won’t forget – sudden and unexpected vistas, grazing mule deer, elk and moose, watery sunrises and smoky sunsets.  When I left home, I had a long list of hiking options – far too many to experience in our short month, though I checked quite a few off the list and can’t wait to go back.  Some of the favorites, though, included last-minute turns off the road and the odd suggestions made by those I met along the way.

These three stand out – not above the rest, necessarily, but each one makes my heart glad just remembering the blessing of the moments I spent on the trail.   I couldn’t open my eyes wide enough, or breathe deeply enough, or listen ardently enough, to take it all in.  But I tried.  The title track to Lauren Daigle’s album “Look Up, Child” burrowed in my brain and wouldn’t leave.  The message?  Don’t just watch your step or look around at all the wonder – look UP.   More than any other miles I logged this summer, these three hikes were made so much richer when I turned my eyes skyward.

Bridal Veil and Upper Falls

Provo, UT

Icicle Gorge River Trail – Leavenworth, WA

Let’s just start with the name – Icicle Gorge.  Doesn’t that make you want to pull your hiking boots on?  I’ll qualify by saying we did this hike in July, so the “icicle” part sounded refreshing, not frozen.   Just west of Leavenworth, Washington from Route 2, hang a left onto Icicle Road (of course!) for about 16 miles along the rushing waters of the – you guessed it – Icicle River.  There are many trailheads on this road, including the popular Colchuck Lake trail.  Colchuck had been my original plan but . . . 1 – no dogs allowed, and 2 – heavily trafficked.  So Lexi and I pressed on and opted for the Icicle Gorge River Trail.  I am not sorry.

While this is only a four-mile hike and not challenging at all, it felt like so much more.  The trail is a loop, which is always a bonus.  For 2+ hours, Lexi and I navigated the well-maintained path; first heading south just above the gorge, listening to the rush of the waters below us.  This hike provided so many surprises, including a beautiful wooden bridge suspended over the fiercest of river currents.  I could imagine the salmon running here amidst the abundance of cutthroat and rainbow trout.  A fisherman’s paradise!

Of course all Lexi can think about is water and her next chance to get in it.  The trail does begin to lead us back to the river, and we hike on, heading west.  We did encounter a few folks along the way, mostly near the peaceful and secluded camping area close to the northern end of the trail.   A few tents dotted the landscape under the massive pines on either side of the river.  What a lovely place to sleep! 

I loved the bridges.  With one exception, they were all designed for foot traffic.  Some with more primitive designs with logs stretching over smaller creeks, and others involved serious engineering to navigate the rushing Icicle River.  As we continued to cross the water, we picked our way along the edge of the river so Lexi could lay in the coolness and play here and there.  The river featured lots of small little side streams in this area, where the current wasn’t so swift or so likely to pull a golden retriever hundreds of yards downstream in a flash.

A spectacular afternoon.   A truly stunning gift to all of my senses.  Four miles of the Icicle Gorge River Trail just wasn’t enough.  Lexi and I could have stayed for days.  Western Washington was waiting for us, though.  And it just kept getting better!

Bogachiel State Park – Forks, WA

Where in the World is Bogachiel?

My first favorite thing about the park was that the road in was called Undie Road.  Ha!  How do you not turn onto Undie Road???  But I digress.   About 30 minutes prior, I had pulled over to search my map and phone for a place to go for a short hike.  It was midafternoon, and both Lexi the Golden and I were pretty restless and ready to get out of the car for a while.

Knowing nothing about it but banking on plenty of past experience that state parks tend to have great walking/hiking trails, we headed for Bogachiel.  As it was midafternoon, I held out some hope that maybe we may love it enough and be lucky enough to find an empty campsite for the night.

For some context, Bogachiel is located south of the town of Forks, Washington. on Highway 101 in Clallam County, Washington.  (And in case it sounded familiar, let’s be clear; it IS the Twilight town.  Yes indeed. Check it out here.)

The park is sandwiched between the Pacific to the west and the massive land mass and peaks of Olympic National Park to the east and south.  I think it’s safe to say that many folks who stay at Bogachiel use the park as an access point for Olympic Park, some of the coastal areas of the Pacific like Ruby Beach, and the Hoh Rainforest (Yes, rainforest.  More on that in a moment.)

Bogachiel:  Narnia or Oz?

Unlike most state parks with campgrounds, this one seemed tiny.  Completely under the cover of massive trees, the small RVs and campers there took on the feeling of playthings not unlike my “Little People” camper from my childhood.  After a quick tour around the camping loop (no sites available) we easily found a trail and headed into the woods.

In a moment I had both Wizard of Oz and Narnia bells going off in my head, fluctuating back and forth between feeling like we were headed to Oz through the haunted forest with Dorothy or the Great Woods with Lucy and Susan.  The greens were just so . . . GREEN.  Bright Kelly green – it would have been of little surprise had Mr. Tumnus stepped into the path or had one of the massive Sitka spruce trees spoke a few words into the quiet.

Swimming in the Rainforest at Bogachiel

Before long we popped out onto the back loop of the campground (still no vacancy and no one to try to sweet talk into an extra space!).  Lexi’s pace quickened, which usually means she smells water.  Of course she was right, and just beyond one length of campsites, I was surprised to find the shallow and inviting (and surprisingly warm) Bogachiel River.  Swimming and nonsense ensued for a while, and we watched kids playing and rafting just downriver.   What a perfect spot!

A note regarding my rainforest comment . . . this is the kind of thing that happens when no planning is involved.  I knew nothing about Bogachiel other than what I experienced in my hour there.  It was only later that evening, when I had cell service and could look it up, did I realize that the state park is actually IN the rainforest.  Ha!  With brilliant sunny skies and in the middle of nowhere, it never occurred to me that was even a possibility.

And still later, when I went digging through the handy “The Most Scenic Drives in America” book on my front seat, I found a little article on Bogachiel and learned that my totally random discovery was hardly a secret.  Confirmation that it’s pretty epic!

Bridal Veil and Upper Falls – Provo River Trail, Utah

Bonus –  The (Kind of Secret) Upper Falls

We oohed and aahed for a while, but honestly this wasn’t at all what I expected.  Hiking on a paved trail with a few hundred other people really isn’t hiking at all.  We pressed on, not knowing what else might lay ahead, but hopeful!

I did love that the trail cut between the mountain and falls on our immediate right and the Provo River, rushing down through the canyon on our left.  Here and there I could see a fisherman through the thick of trees, patiently casting into the cold clear water.

Determined to explore more and find something else to see while we were there, I consulted All Trails (don’t have the app?  Get it here!) to find that less than a mile ahead lay a trailhead to another waterfall, called “Upper Falls”.

Here was the reward!  After locating the trailhead, Lexi and I scrambled up the rocky hill for about .4 miles.  I found it pretty steep and very rocky, and it certainly helped to consult All Trails a few times to make sure we stayed on the right path, as several others cut in and out along the way.  We didn’t encounter a soul.

Before long we could hear the water, and just around a bend we burst into a small clearing with the falls just above us.  The day was hot and dry, and we eagerly picked our way right up to the base to enjoy the spray.  It struck me that the waterfall crashed onto what could only be called a giant stone tablet (pardon the additional Narnia reference!), creating another beautiful water feature that almost looked too perfect.

Lexi needed one last dip in the water before we hit the road, and before long we found a little break in the trees with a path to the river.  Just across the stream, she noticed and became completely entranced watching a fly fisherman drying his line in the air and casting into the shallows.   Neither she nor the fisherman were in any hurry on this glorious afternoon.  Sighing, I settled in on the bank, loving these last few moments before heading into the mountain deserts of eastern Utah.

Look up.  Do it.  

Literally speaking you’re guaranteed to notice something most will walk or drive right by.  In the Icicle Gorge and Bogatiel State Park,  I looked up to discover the most amazing canopies of forest.  Walking along the Provo River Trail, looking up led Lexi and I to the Upper Falls for a few moments of peace and sanctuary.  Spiritually speaking, looking up gives me the opportunity to be thankful that the God of all creation has given us so much beauty to revel in.  Travel therapy, indeed. 

Come Along!

To stay up-to-date with our adventure, head over to Facebook and like Just Being Bing. I’ll post each update there as well as on my website.

As you can imagine, traveling for an extended period of time takes a lot of planning and preparation, and I love the planning!  Once we’re on the road though, there’s room for all kinds of twists and turns in our travel.  I love so many of the unexpected moments of our trips.

There’s also a ton of prayer involved – both as part of the planning, and when we are on the road.  If you’d like to pray for me (and Lexi!) while we are adventuring, we would be grateful.  I’ll share a few specifics in my updates.  Thank you!

Maybe we will see you Around the Bend!